Breakfast with Vibol
Vibol Thach is a resolute and passionate man of wine, a proud Cambodian who lived much of his early life in France, (where he still visits regularly) before returning to Cambodia with an invigorated fervor for his country of birth, and his zeal for fine wine intact.
At the quiet end of a city street, tucked in behind the river -between Wat Ounalom and Veal Preah Meru, (itself next to the Royal Palace) is Vibol’s wine shop, The French Wine Collection. This small, single shop-house entrance an unassuming portal into a rabbit warren of vinous treasures, a veritable wonderland of fermented charms.
Grand Champagne, magnificent Bordeaux, rare Rhone wines, occasional good Burgundies, and (increasingly) New World wines from Chile and the USA, are to be found here.
Behind this beguiling shopfront is not only an extraordinary collection, but also a genial host who takes immense pleasure in sharing and enjoying his precious delights with friends, colleagues, and his very loyal and regular clientele. I have attended many a fine tasting with Vibol, where I have always enjoy his company a great deal. A visit always involves discovering and sharing great wines and exchanging nourishing wine stories.
I am also hugely impressed with his own-label wines, Vibol works with a couple of renowned and trusted wineries in France with which he is close. The wineries source quality fruit and oversee production on his behalf and to his specifications, both in Bordeaux and across southern France. These are very enjoyable wines of high quality, a testament to someone who has dedicated his life and his livelihood to pursuing his passion.
To be invited to this shop -where Vibol will usually organize a simple French lunch, or some charcuterie and fromagerie to accompany the wines -is an absolute joy. Lately, my friend and I have been catching up for breakfast, a simple, humble, and completely wonderful affair performed at little cafe tables on the sidewalk in front of his store.
The street is quiet, with barely any traffic, snippets of daily life wandering by, and the magnificent temple as a contemplative and visually calming backdrop. A baguette, eggs, tomatoes and greens, good coffee, and a friend to talk about all things wine with. We talk about our city, our home and our life and of course, we talk about wine as two men do who are passionate about what they do, what they create and how they might share it with good people, these gatherings are always treasured times and always time well spent.
Vibol recently took delivery of some of the highly regarded wines from Duckhorn winery in Saint Helena, Napa Valley. For five decades, Dan and Margaret Duckhorn have been one of the Napa Valley’s finest producers, so I was delighted to have the chance to acquire some of their wines here in Cambodia.
As it was only a day or two before I was due to head back to the winery in Myanmar, I quickly snapped up a bottle of the ‘Decoy’ second label Pinot Noir and a bottle of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and took them over to share with my winemaking team at Red Mountain Estate.
Over our monthly team dinner in the winery restaurant, they were very well received, respected and enjoyed for their fine qualities, and greatly appreciated by all.
Winery: DUCKHORN VINEYARDS
Label: DECOY
Region: California
Sub-Regions: Sonoma, Monterey, Santa Barbara, Yolo, San Luis Obispo County, San Benito.
Variety: 100% Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2022
Appearance: Polished gemstone ruby-red, with purple hues, very vibrant and inviting, almost glowing in the glass.
Aroma: An initial burst of wild strawberry, with some ripe cherry over underlying notes of dark chocolate, soy, black tea, and a touch of sweet balsamic.
Palate: plush, clean, ripe fruit, juicy and approachable, with red fruits (strawberry, red currant, bilberry). The fruit is very attractive and inviting, the wine has decent length through the palate with a vibrant, cleansing brace of acidity at the back, including some acetic acid.
Summary: A clean and straight-ahead fruit driven Pinot Noir with attractive, ripe fruit, fine and subtle oak, good length, and vibrant acidity. Very easy drinking, an elegant wine that slips onto the palate, juicy and fresh in the mid-levels and with a pronounced and lifted finish. 89/100
Winery: DUCKHORN VINEYARDS
Region: Napa Valley
Sub-Regions: Oak Knoll, Rutherford, Oakville, Calistoga
Varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon 94%, Merlot 5%, Cabernet Franc 1%
Maturation: 16 months in 100% French oak
50% new, 50% neutral
Vintage: 2021
Appearance: The wine is a deep garnet colour,
Bouquet: Lovely, restrained complexity here, black fruits, star anise, with a slight herbal note and a whiff of cigar box.
Palate: A medium-bodied wine with attractive depth and balance, A juicy, rich core of ripe forest berry fruit with good length through the palate, a little cooking chocolate and coffee grinds towards the back adds complexity, there are fine, ripe tannins and some nice wet-stone acidity.
Summary: There is a lovely seamless poise to this wine. It has sophisticated complexity with beautiful balance, elegance, and finesse. Drink now or over the next few years with roast lamb, rabbit, or wild hare. 94/100
